Ride Report
Heavener, Oklahoma Loops
16 – 19 September, 2022
Welcome to my much-delayed ride report on my fall 2022 dual-sport trip to Heavener, Oklahoma. Delayed because it was cut short by an accident and because I wasn’t sure I’d bother with a report.
Back in 2016 I spent a night in Heavener while riding the Oklahoma Adventure Trail. I always wanted to go back and do more riding because of the abundance of good dual-sport roads in the area. So, I designed four day-loops, each starting in Heavener … two south, one east, and one north. Many of the roads would cross into Arkansas and traverse the Ouachita and Ozark National forests. I had previously planned to do the ride on a couple of other dates before time and weather finally cooperated. As I planned to pull my mini toy-hauler, I located an RV space at the Runestone Park on the edge of town for thirty bucks a night.
Somewhat dreading the 500 mile drive, I left Lubbock early Friday morning headed toward Wichita Falls, then north to Antlers, Ok, then Wister, and south to Heavener. The park is situated on a mountain that overlooks the town several hundred feet below. Opened in 1970, the park has been erected around the Heavener Runestone, a rock found in 1923, and most likely inscribed in the 19th century, perhaps by a Swedish immigrant. The stone is located on Poteau Mountain just outside the town’s limits in the scrub-forest foothills of the Ouachita Mountains. I had made reservations as I suspected the park might be full. As it turned out, I was the only RV and had the only space that appeared usable. The park is very rustic with little apparent maintenance. The parking was not ideal, and the power connector was further away than my cord would reach. I managed to roll my rig under the covered awning and resolved both issues. After setting up camp, I drove into town for Mexican food. The park does provide a very rustic shower in a 60-year-old stone building. After making use of said shower, I watched a movie and drifted off to sleep.
Saturday, 17 September: I ate breakfast in my rig, loaded up my DRZ 400S and headed south from town about 8:15. I rode US 59/270 for 6 miles to Hodgen and turned west on Conser Rd. After a few miles, I turned south on Conser Creek Rd, the first dirt of the morning. This was an alternate route I had laid out and decided to give it a try … really glad I did as it was good ride up Post Mountain. I then descended on Post Mt. Rd. to Hw. 1, part of the famed Talimena Parkway. If you’re not familiar with the Parkway (Ok-1/AR-88), it’s a rollercoaster ride along a ridge of mountains a couple of thousand feet above the surrounding valleys. Hw. 1 brought me east to US-259 and then south where I headed west for several miles on OK-63. At Muse I left pavement on CR-1620 to Indian Highway. This road is a very narrow, paved road that winds and climbs over Smith Ridge and drops down to Honobia. From there I rode D-4610 over Spring Mountain to Bethel and then south again on US-259. Next I followed Cedar Reek Trail to OK-3 then broke off on N-4584 and E-2005, my second alternate route, to US-259. This took me south into Broken Bow. I found a shaded picnic table at the high school where I ate a late lunch and cooled off. The temperature was upper 90’s and very humid. After refueling, I rode west on E-2060 to US-70 then turned north off pavement onto Tablerville Rd. After a couple of miles I made a hard left onto CR-25000. The road was not very well maintained and after about 6 miles I came to a forest service gate. I searched for a way around but gave up and backtracked to Tablerville Rd. After a right turn on D1970, I rode east for a few miles to Union Valley Rd., a great dirt road which is part of the OAT. I continued north on Union Valley for nearly 30 miles to Nani Chito, then OK-4 and into Smithville. All of the roads since leaving US-70 were dirt, fairly easy and scenic riding. Smithville sits on US-259 so I mentally prepared myself for the long slog of pavement back to US-270 and into Heavener. To my surprise, the slab was pretty twisty so I had some fun counter-steering through the mountains at 60 mph, testing the traction of my knobbies.
Arriving back at the park, I took a shower then ate supper at an old railroad dining-car in town. It was a good day but very hot and a bit more pavement than I wanted. Since then, I have revised the route and deleted the portion from OK-63 west and south to Honobia. The original route was a little over 260 miles, just a bit too long. It was a good ride with lots of elevation change, some water crossings, lots of tree tunnels, plus a few deer sightings. It was really hot! If I do the trip again, I’ll try to go later in the fall.
Sunday, 18 September: After pancakes and eggs I headed into Heavener around eight. I left Heavener on OK-128 then turned right at Hontubby on Walker Mt. Rd., the same road by which the OAT leaves town. However, the OAT route leads to a really tough, rocky climb up to the Parkway. So, I veered right, traveling south through Hawcreek and turned right again on US-59/270. After a mile I broke left on CR-D1590 to OK-1. I rode the Parkway, which is always fun, for about 12 miles into Arkansas and dropped of the Parkway on CR-100. After a steep descent to AR-8, I rode west back into Oklahoma and AR-63 again. Turning off-road south on FS-6026, I rode a few miles and made a left on Cow Creek Mt. Rd. Bad decision!! The road was at once steep and rocky but after a mile or so it leveled out some and followed a ridge, although still climbing. High up, I came to an isolated, ramshackle house with a fairly new pickup. The road continued past the house but immediately became an unmaintained two-track. It was at this point that the little voice in my head suggested turning around. However, it was several miles back and I rationalized that the mountain man had been using it with his pickup … so I continued on. The growth beside the two-track made it really hard to stay in the deep sandy ruts. Suddenly, the edge of a rut grabbed my front tire and spun me sideways, dumping me on my right side. As I hit the ground, I immediately felt a stabbing pain in my right ankle. With my right leg pinned under the bike, I turned the key and fuel off and began to work my boot out from under the bike. When I tried to stand, I couldn’t bear much weight on my right foot … bad sprain I surmised. The bike was laying perpendicular to the road and downhill a bit but I managed to drag it back facing straight. After removing my Wolfman soft panniers to lighten the bike, I barely managed to lift the bike. Okay, decision time, go back or continue on? The road was already descending so I decided to continue down. After much prayer, pain, and riding over- my-head, I made it down to CR-D1725 and then considered whether to take the pavement back to Heavener or complete my route. I chose to continue the route east into Zarfa and crossed back into Arkansas. I next traveled some good county roads, 38 and 37, eventually hitting AR-375 and rode into Mena. It was very hot again so I found some shade and ate my lunch, gassed up, and headed out of Mena on US-71. I turned west on US-270 then left the pavement at Eagleton on CR-97 (Eagle Gap Rd.). I was in pain but the road was great through the Ouachita Forest. My route then connected with Harvest Rd., Lower Haw Creek Rd., eventually heading west on Walker Mt. Rd., bringing me full circle and almost back to Heavener.
When I got back to the trailer, I carefully removed my right boot to survey the damage. Already very swollen and “colorful”, I knew I wouldn’t be riding again tomorrow. I changed clothes and drove into town for supper. I could barely walk but stopped at the park office/store and let them know I was leaving the next morning.
Monday, 19 September: I rose early and with great difficulty loaded my DRZ in the trailer, hooked up and headed for home. I had to use my left foot for the gas and brake. I made it to Antlers where I hobbled into a great little Mom and Pop café for breakfast. Back on the road, I’ve never been so grateful for cruise control with 400 more miles to Lubbock.
Epilogue: Back home, I considered getting and x-ray but was pretty sure it was just a bad sprain. On Wednesday, at the urging of the wife, I had the x-ray … fractured lateral malleolus, i.e., bottom of the Tibia. Fortunately, no surgery … walking-boot for six weeks and five weeks physical therapy. One of these days I’m going to listen to that little voice when it says, “better turn around”.
As I mentioned, I made a couple of changes in the two routes and hope to go back, maybe next fall, and ride all four loops.
